A Mediterranean paradise where ancient history meets modern football madness. Buying Champions League tickets over the bar in a cafe to witness one of the most dramatic penalty shootouts in European competition history.
I’m Martino and I’m going to let you know whether this tiny 9,000 year old island nation is worth a visit for your next Footy Trip. Let’s do this!
Looking for a little summer adventure, I cross checked flights from Manchester with countries I’d never visited, aligning that with the early rounds of European Qualifying and Malta jumped out as the most obvious solution. Perfect. I booked with my trusty friends at Ryanair and awaited the draw for the Conference League First Qualifying Round where Floriana and Birkirkara looked to discover their opponents.
What a surprise
Aaand, as is so often the case, it didn’t quite go to plan. Both teams were drawn away during my visit so time for Plan B. For another £50 added on to the original £160, I opted to bring the outbound flight forward a day meaning I could take in the Champions League 1st Round Qualifier of Ħamrun Spartans vs Zalgiris of Lithuania. Now for the ticket search.
Landing in Valetta you are hit with the stifling humidity but this is eased by the much needed sea breeze. Arriving late in the evening you quickly observe that fine outdoor culture that makes this part of the world so appealing. It’s easy to see why millions of people flock to this tiny picturesque island every year. Bars and restaurants line the sloped cobbled streets enclosed by the characterful buildings with thousands of years of history.
Nearly 9000 to be more precise as that’s when civilisation is known to have settled here. Since then Sicilians, Phoenicians, Romans, Byzantines, Arabs and many others have had their time ruling the island, before the French took over in more recent history under the guidance of Napolean Bonaparte. However, this was a short-lived reign of just a couple of years before Malta requested British intervention in 1800 thus voluntarily joining the British Empire.
Key location
In time, the island took on geographical significance for Great Britain due to its proximity to the Suez Canal and its ideal position as a military and naval base. Never more was this proven than during the Second World War when Malta fought off aerial bombardment from the Italian and German forces and provided an ideal platform for the allies to launch responses.
During the war, the island was awarded the George’s Cross by the then King of England, the highest civilian award for gallantry, a symbol it now displays proudly on its national flag.
In 1964, after centuries of foreign rule, Malta finally became an independent nation whilst retaining its status as a member of the Commonwealth.
After a morning strolling around the capital, I finally had it confirmed via the supporters group on Facebook that I could purchase tickets from the Sparta Café, smack bang in the centre of the town of Ħamrun, just 10 minutes from Valetta. I celebrated the news with a 2 for 1 beer for breakfast, checked out the ferry over to Sliema before mooching on over to Ħamrun. The home of the Maltese Champions.
A little history
Formed in 1907, they quickly picked up their first two Maltese titles before a particularly barren run with just one more success in the next 65 years. Glory returned in the 80’s with four more championship wins before leaving it to the others to battle it out at the top of the table for the next 30 years.
In 2020 Joseph Portelli took control of the club, a construction magnate who has made significant investments in the team, although a slightly controversial figure, he has been pivotal in returning Ħamrun back to the top of the tree. Success was almost immediate and Ħamrun have won 4 of the last 5 titles and will be aiming to make it a record equalling 4th in a row next year.
Victory last season wasn’t without its fortune as they were greatly aided by the new league format. Despite finishing 5th in the opening round and 2nd in the closing round, they still managed to win the 4 team play off beating Birkirkara in the Final, a team who also won neither of the two league sections.
A league should be a league
Not a fan of it myself. League winners should be rewarded for their performance over the season rather than a late run of form. But anyway, Ħamrun won’t care about the fact they finished 10 points behind Floriana and will only reflect on the season as the one they sealed their 11th championship leaving them the 5th most successful club in Maltese history.
It goes without saying, just like pretty much every team or country I visit, they have had a brush with controversy. Ħamrun were relegated in 2014 due to the involvement of two players and two Club Officials in a match fixing scandal but fortunately for the fans they bounced back rapidly.
We rolled up to the Sparta Café to find a few passionate souls ready for the big day. An interesting method for purchasing tickets. We just passed over 25 Euros to the man behind the bar and he handed over the tickets. Not something I can ever recall doing before but I liked the style, felt very old school.
There was also some strong exposure to the local language. I knew before arriving that English was the official language here but didn’t realise that there was also a native language that had survived all the invasions and rulers over the years. Overall, Maltese sounds like Arabic with Italian melody and some English slang thrown in, a wonderful example of linguistic development.
Heading to the stadium
After a quick bottle of the local brew ‘Cisk’, it was back in a Bolt taxi to the nights venue, not Ħamruns Victor Tedesco Stadium but the Centenary Stadium which is often used for European games for many teams. Plans are afoot for Ħamrun to construct a new 3000-seater stadium which will meet UEFA requirements and they were hoping victory today will continue to boost the funds for this venture.
As you’d expect in the height of summer on the Mediterranean, the sun was shining all day and the game kicked off to a gorgeous backdrop. Ħamrun returned from the first leg in the Lithuanian capital with a 2-0 deficit but the fans were full of hope for a turnaround as the stands filled up pre match.
Being a UEFA fixture, I wasn’t expecting any beer to be available, but I was pleasantly surprised, I even treated myself to a Cider complimented with a chicken sandwich, lovely little treat. There were two Capo’s energetically leading the chants and insisting that everyone around them stood up to join in. The surrounding crowd wasn’t quite the typical make-up of Ultras but they certainly added to the noise. A familial feel in comparison to some of the more intimidating European venues.
Positive start
The home side started the better and had the ball in the net early on only for the linesman’s flag to halt the celebrations, but they’d laid down a marker for what was to come. On 34 minutes Serigne Saliou Thioune strained every sinew in his body to nod the ball home at the back post. The fans went wild but that was nothing compared to the reaction six minutes later when Joseph Mbong blasted an unstoppable thunderbolt into the top corner, the strike was so fast the cameraman could barely keep up. Game on.
Bar access was smooth and simple so half time beers were quickly collected before settling in for the second half. Zalgiris offered next to nothing going forward and had their keeper to thank for hauling them through to Extra Time.
The following 30 minutes had few talking points, but that was fine by me as we all love a penalty shoot-out don’t we. As the sun set beautifully on the stadium, the home fans were in fine voice again trying to push their heroes over the line.
Dino Salcinovic was the first to miss for the away side as captain Henry Bonello dived full stretch to his right to pull off a cracking save. However, parity was restored and at 4-4 we went to sudden death. Another Bonello save gave goalscorer Thioune the chance to write his name into Ħamrun folklore but he rattled the crossbar after sending the keeper the wrong way.
The next three players from each team calmly converted their penalties under increasing pressure. And at a staggering 7-7 it was time for the keepers to step up. One of the oddest and most satisfying images in football and as is weirdly often the case, barring poor old David De Gea, both keepers tucked away their penalties.
Back to the start, we go again. Poor old Dino went for the second time, aiming for exactly the same spot but this time rolled it wide. The crowd went wild and released some of the building tension, over to Jonny, be good to us. He went for power but the keeper raised a hand and deflected the ball leaving the bar shaking once again.
Finally
Can you believe it. Salcinovic off the hook yet again. But finally, 3 and a quarter hours after the game kicked off Jovan Čađenović slotted home after Ofori had ballooned over and sent the crowd into raptures. Ħamrun had reached the second qualifying round for the first time. The celebrations were incredible and the whole squad and staff came over to share the moment with the fans. One of the greatest days in the club’s history and what a way to do it. A cracking performance followed by a dramatic 28 penalty shootout, the third longest in European History
Back into town to Billy’s Sports Bar and a few more Blue Label beers were knocked back while taking in a quite different penalty shoot out as pretty much everyone transpired to miss as the Lionesses fought back to beat Sweden.
A run the next morning was the only way to try and power through the hangover, but I’d be lying if I said it wasn’t a brutal experience in 30 degree plus heat. Thankfully there are plenty of sunbeds in the shade where you can get your head down for 10 Euros which was very much the order of the day. However, by the end I was ready for home, considering it was July in the Mediterranean, it wasn’t too bad, but coming home with a dodgy throat from the aircon says it all.
Since my visit Ħamrun were dispatched 6-0 on aggregate by Ukranian giants Dynamo Kiev in the next round, but alas, the Europa League awaited them but again, no joy. One final shot with the Conference League. And finally, for the first time in Malta’s history, they will have representation in the Group Stages of a UEFA competition. This adventure will take them to Poland, Turkey and Ireland, an incredible experience for the club and their fans.
Is Malta worth a visit for a Footy Trip?
Malta is a great spot for boozing with friends as well as a classy place to take your other half. Certainly, a place I’d be happy to return to, but as for a Footy Trip? Let’s give it a score out of 100 and see how it compares to our other adventures.
Team Ability – Dubious champions of the 41st best league in Europe, squeezed into Europe at the final hurdle so let’s see how the season goes but for now – 3/10
Atmosphere – Really happy vibes and great scenes at the end. Two lively Capo’s bought the entertainment throughout even if the majority of fans needed a strong nudge – 7/10
Stadium Quality – Situated next door to the national stadium, it isn’t too different from Ħamruns home ground. Quite pleasant but lacking character and identity, a fairly typical looking municipal stadium with 5G pitch – 3/10
Beer/Food at stadium – Can’t knock it, beer and cider just a few metres from your seat and you could drink in the stands. Sandwiches and snacks as well for decent prices, beautiful – 9/10
Tourism – A stunning stone clad capital as seen in Game of Thrones, plenty of beaches, ports, resorts Scuba Diving at the Blue Lagoon and a mind-blowing number of historical spots. Something for everybody, particularly those with a fondness for a beautiful sunset – 8/10
Accessibility – Affordable direct flights from plenty of airports and just 3 and a half hours in the air and it doesn’t break the bank once there – 6/10
People – Seemed a pretty pleasant bunch from anyone that we crossed paths with. A very safe feeling place with positive vibes – 7/10
Stadium Surroundings – Small little food truck to grab a beer in a car park but nothing to write home about, their home ground seemed to have a little bit more about it though – 4/10
History – Over 100 years old but fair to say very few people will have heard of them outside of Malta – 3/10
Ease/Cost of ticket purchase – Difficult to organise. Instagram, Facebook and direct e-mail to the club were required but still only got confirmation of ‘where to buy’ on the morning of the game. 25 Euros each, not crazy for a Champions League game but not too cheap either – 4/10
Total – 54/100
Not the best score overall and it’s fair to say the football would be a nice add on to a holiday in Malta rather than the other way around
Accomplishments
For me in terms of personal accomplishments on this trip
Malta was the 69th country I have visited (69/196)
And the 31st in which I have watched football and taking me to one third of the UEFA nations
An absolute pleasure as always to travel around the world enjoying the delights on offer, thanks again for joining me and until the next footy trip, take it easy